SUCHY'S PLACE   DESIGN   MODELS

COMPUTERS   ART   ABOUT JOHN

TRAIN STATION

Shingle Roof w/ Door Shingle Roof Loading Door File $4.00 USD Shingle Roof Loading Door Printout $5.00 USD

Shingle Roof no Door Shingle Roof No Loading Door File $4.00 USD Shingle Roof No Loading Door Printout $5.00 USD

Shake Roof w/ Door Shake Roof Loading Door File $4.00 USD Shake Roof Loading Door Printout $5.00 USD

Shake Roof no Door Shake Roof No Loading Door File $4.00 USD Shake Roof No Loading Door Printour $5.00 USD

     These patterns may be purchased as files so you can print as many stations as you like or as preprinted sheets (shipping applies and you are limited to the sheet(s) you buy, BUT I can guarantee you a high quality, durable print on 110# card stock).  This is my most complex design so far.  I recommend you start with the tunnel(s), work your way through the houses and church, then follow these directions:
   First, before you even buy a pattern, decide on a few basic features. Will this station be for passengers or freight?  Do you want a more rustic shake (wood) roof or a more modern shingle roof?  And do you want a loading door at platform height on the street side of the station?  On this question, it should look OK with the lower platform of a passenger station, but could look strangely high on a freight station unless you add a truck ramp up to it.
   Once you have your station print in hand, start here:

1. FIRST you must decide whether to use only the paper form to make your model (tricky but possible) or to add a few inexpensive parts.  What you use or not is your choice, but I recommend:
   • a 1/64" x 1/32" brass strip for railings.
   • a 1/16" square or 1/16" x 1/32" wood shape (12" - 24" should be enough) for platform roof posts.
   • a small sheet of 1/32" wood for stairways and other possible uses.
   • Suitable wood can be found in balsa (easy to cut but not very strong), basswood, walnut and mahogany.
   • The walnut and mahogany will look better but cost a lot more.
   • Each of these may be available in 24" or 36" stock in sizes 1/16" square, 1/16" x 1/32" and 1/32" x 3-4".
You may wish to try the paper only method before rushing out to buy the extra parts.
2. Cut out 1 platform roof support part for each end of the main building and assemble:
   • Simple Paper Only (easy, but thin for attaching an end of the platform roof):
     
     1. Cut out one simple building end support and score using straight edge.
     2. Glue the back and fold both halves together.
     3. At your option, cut, fold and glue another one and glue it to match the first (better roof support).
     
     4. Repeat for the other end of the building.
   • Better Paper Only (more complex but sturdy):
     1. Cut out one fat roof support.
     2. Score part as shown.  DO NOT CUT SQUARE CENTER FOR BUILDING ENDS.
     3. Fold along scores to simulate beam faces.
     
     4. Glue the two outer tabs back on themselves.
     
     5. Glue top closed to make a finished roof support.
     6. Repeat for the other end of the building.
   • Paper and 1/32" wood (possibly the best option):
     1. Cut out simple roof support and cut along the score line.
     2. Line up the support with the grain of the wood, glue one paper pattern to the wood in that position and carefully cut around the pattern to make squared edges.
     3. Turn piece over and glue the other paper pattern on the back, making sure it matches exactly.
     4. Repeat for the other end of the building.
   • Paper and Basswood stick (strongest, a little oversized):
     1. Cut out simple roof support and cut along the score line.
     2. Turn one paper pattern over, glue the basswood along the support base and trim the ends diagonally to match the pattern.
     3. Optionally, glue two basswood pieces along the top edges of the support, trimming as needed.
     
     4. Glue another paper pattern over the basswood on the back, making sure it matches exactly.
     5. Repeat for the other end of the building.
   • Anywhere you would use simple roof supports except the single fold paper type, you might consider trimming one fat roof support each and folding the tabs back to cover the exposed edges to make a better looking support.
3. If you choose to use platform roof supports in front of the building, repeat the above directions using the "half supports" (2 recommended).
       
4. Cut out and assemble stand alone platform roof supports:
   • Simple Paper Only (easy, but very unstable):
     1. Cut 2 thin roof suppot and pole patterns.
     2. Glue two supports back to back perfectly aligned.
     3. At your option, glue two more on top of the ones you just glued (stronger but uses more paper parts).
     4. Repeat for all the stand alone roof supports you need.
   • Better Paper Only (more complex but sturdy):
     1. Cut out one fat roof suppot as in step 2.
     2. Cut and score the part as shown including removing the dark square in the center.
     3. Fold along scores to simulate beam faces.
     4. Glue together as in step 2 to make support.
     
     5. Cut out and score one support pole as shown.
     6. Fold white tab and glue flat against pattern.
     7. Fold remaning scores into square tube and glue (see drawings in step 2).
     8. Lay support on simple pole support pattern for reference.
     9. put a dab of glue into the square opening on the bottom of the support.
     10. Insert pole into hole, line up pole and support exactly to the simple psttern and hold or clamp until dry.
     11. Repeat for all the stand alone roof supports you need.
   • Paper and 1/32" Balsa (good scale size, not strong):
     1. Cut 2 thin roof suppot and pole patterns.
     2. Lining up the pole with the grain of the wood, glue one paper pattern to the wood in that position and carefully cut around the pattern to make squared edges.
     3. Turn piece over and glue another paper pattern on the back, making sure it matches exactly.
     4. Repeat for all the stand alone roof supports you need.
   • Paper and Basswood stick (strong, 1/16" square stick will make it oversized):
     1. Cut 2 thin roof support and pole patterns.
     2. Turn one paper pattern over, glue the basswood along the pole and trim it at the pole bottom and roof support peak.
     3. Optionally, glue two cross braces along the lower edge of the roof support and trim to match the roof angle.
     4. Turn piece over and glue another paper pattern on the back, making sure it matches exactly.
     5. Repeat for all the stand alone roof supports you need.
   • Alternate Paper and 1/16" Basswood stick (strongest, a little oversized):
     1. Cut out one fat roof support asw in step 2 above.
     2. Cut out dark center square.
     3. Fold and glue as in step 2.
     4. Using a thin pole pattern as a guide, glue the 1/16" square stick into the support to the peak, making sure it and the support line up with the pattern.
     5. When dry, trim pole to match pattern..
     6. Repeat for all the stand alone roof supports you need.
   • Anywhere you would use thin pole roof supports except the simplest, you might consider trimming fat pole roof supports less as shown and folding the tabs back to cover the exposed edges to make a better looking pole and support.
5. Now you need to choose your platform height.  You have 4 options:
   • No platform – not recommended as the platform helps hold the roof supports in place (level 0),
   • Platform on the ground (level 1),
   • Passenger Stop Height – boarding step high (level 2) or
   • Freight Stop Height – about level with flatcar and boxcar floors (level 3).
NOTE: these heights work ONLY if your ground level at the station matches the height of the track ties.
6. Main Station:
   1. Cut out the main station walls and trim the decending parts to the height number (0 to 3) that you have chosen.
   2. Score all wall corners and tabs on the front of the paper.
   3. Below the station walls is the floor – cut it out (optional but recommended as it helps keep the station square and secured to the platform).
   4. Score the four edges of the station floor on the back and fold the tabs up.
   5. Fold the station walls and wall glue tabs at square angles.  Glue and clamp the wall tabs inside the matching walls.

7. Now assemble the platform pieces as follows:
   • For height 0 skip this step.
   • For height 1 cut out only the platform itself, cut off the ramp and skip the supports.
   
   • For heights 2 and 3:
     1. Cut out the platform.
     2. Cut the black line between the platform and the ramp and score the ramp so it will fold down right behind the platform supports.
     3. Cut out both platform supports at the bottom line you chose (The same numbered one you cut the station to).
     4. Fold the corners and all glue tabs on the platform supports at right angles.
     5. Glue the support halves together.
     6. Glue the platform on its supports with the indent on one side mathcing that edge of the support and all other edges overhanging the supports equally.
8. For height 0 set station upright on the assembly surface, push the floor down inside the station flat against the surface and skip the next step.
9. Connect station and platform:
   1. Fit the ticket window side of the station into the platform indent and overlapping the platform.
   2. Optionally, (recommended) spread a small amount of glue on the platform INSIDE the station, gently push the floor flat into the station to platform level and glue it to the platform.
10. With both station and platform (or floor) sitting flat on a level surface, bend each floor tab in turn away from the station wall, insert glue and clamp or hold to wall until dry.
11. Cut out the platform roof:
    1. Cut the front and back edges of the roof first, leaving enough material on either side to see the black peak marks.
    2. Cut out the slot in the back of this roof and make sure it fits well on the station.
    3. Line up a straight edge under the roof peak using the black lines as a reference – there is no line on the roof itself for this.
    4. Fold the roof down over the lined up straight edge WITHOUT SCORING.
    5. Now cut the ends of the platform roof.
12. Cut out two roof end caps, score edges of white tabs, fold in and glue the caps to the outside ends of the platform roof.
13. If you made platform roof supports for the front of the station:
    1. Fit platform roof onto station.Mark lightly the upper edge of the platform roof in the middle of each of the two darker verticle "wood beams", remove the roof from the station and turn it over.
    2. Glue one support from step 3 square to the roof with the support peak at the upper edge of the roof at eack point marked.
14. With the platform roof on its top, glue the roof supports from step 2 squarely on each side of the station gap, exactly at the edge of the gap and with the support peak matching the roof peak.  NOTE: DO NOT MOUNT THESE END SUPPORTS SO THEY KEEP THE ROOF FROM FITTING ONTO THE STATION!
15. With the platform roof still on its top, glue the roof support poles from step 4 squarely on each side of the station, placed equal distances apart and from the building edge supports.
16. Turn platform roof upright and use the available supports to glue the roof to the station and (if any) the platform.
17. Cut out the station main roof.  You may either cut off the eaves or score them for folding down.  Then fold the roof along the marked crest line over a straight edge without scoring
18. If you keep the eaves,
    
    1. Cut out the two peak keepers.
    2. Cut and score the eave corners as marked.
    3. Fold all eaves to hang straight down when the roof is on the station.
    4. Fold eave corner tabs in and glue eave corners into position.
    5. Glue peak keepers behind eaves at each end of the roof peak, matching the point of each keeper to the peak of the roof and the eaves on each side perfectly together.
19. Fold in the station's roof tabs to accept the roof and glue on the roof with the short side directly above the platform roof.
***** For station heights 0 and 1 you are finished with the building itself.  Skip to the optional bench section.
20. Make support for the ramp.
    
    1. Cut out the ramp riser support for the station height you cut earlier.
    2. Cut and score as marked here.
    3. Fold support square on all scores, starting with the ramp sides.
    4. When folding the back up, glue it to the side flaps.
    5. Glue the top, side and back to the platform, platform support and main station respectively.
    6. Now fold the ramp down and glue it to the support.
    
21. Make railing for the ramp.
    1. Cut out the railing for the station height you used and score as shown.
    2. Assemble:
       • Paper: Fold and glue railings back on themselves then glue to the outer side of the ramp.
       • Wood: Cut thin strips of wood off the side of a sheet of 1/32" balsa, cut the strips to length and glue tohether using the pattern, railings inside the poles, then glue to the ramp.
       • Brass: Cut 1/32" x 1/64" strips to length and attach together using the pattern, railings inside the poles (glue or solder may work for this action), then glue to ramp.

22. Make the stair support.
    1. Cut out the Stair Support for the station heihgt you are working with (height 2 shown).
    2. Cut and score the piece as shown.
    3. Fold up the tabs behind the stairs to a square angle.
    4. Fold the stair sides straight up.  The two tabs you already folded should just meet -- trim to fit or start over if they overlap.
    5. Fold the remaining back tab up and glue it to the other two.

23. Make srairs.
    • Paper Only stairs:
    1. Choose the paper for the stairs carefully.  You may copy or print them onto other paper.  110# paper is too bulky for the small space and 20# is very flimsy to work with.  I recommend 40# or 60#.
    2. Cut out the Paper Stairs for your station height.
    3. Cut tabs apart and lightly score steps and tabs as shown.
    4. Fold the steps into a sawtooth (to look like steps), gluing the tabs together as you go.
    5. Glue finished stairs into the stair support.
    • If this was too hard to perfect, you may wish to assemble the steps onto one side of the stair support before gluing the support together.
    
    • Paper stairs with 1/32" wood:
    1. If you are here in desperation after trying paper only, decide on the type of wood:
    • Balsa is inexpensive and easy to cut.
    • Walnut and Mahogany looks better where they show through and under the paper but are the most expensive.
    • Basswood is a compromise, and still harder to cut.
    2. Cut out the stairs for balsa.
    3. The pattern is set up to allow folding the front of the step down to cover the visible balsa, so you can use it two ways:
    • With front covering
    1. Cut and score the stairs exactly as marked.
    2. Fold the step papers you need down at a square angle (the bigger one at the left end and one more for station height 2 and all 7 for height 3).
    3. Glue each step around a straight edge of the wood.
    4. Carefully cut the wood at the back and sides of each step.
    5. Carefully trim any excess paper in front even with the bottom of each step.
    • Covering only the step top
    1. Glue the whole pattern to the wood.
    2. Starting with the long sides cut everything apart.
    3. Collect the steps you will need (the bigger one at the left end and one more medium size for station height 2 and all 7 larger pieces for height 3).  The "step fronts" and any extra steps can be stacked as lumber around your layout.
    4. Fit each step into the stair support and trim just enoough for a perfect fit if necessary.
    5. Glue finished stairs into the stair support one at a time from the bottom up, making sure they line up with the pattern of the stair support.

24. Make the stair railings.
    1. Cut out the one short railing for height 2 or both railings for height 3 and score as shown.
    2. Glue the short or long rail to the station as shown.
    3. For height 3 assemble the more complex railing:
       • Paper: Fold and glue railings back on themselves then glue to the outer side of the stairs.
       • Wood: Cut thin strips of wood off the side of a 1/32" sheet, cut the strips to length and glue together using the pattern, railings inside the poles, then glue to the stairs.
       • Brass: Cut 1/32" x 1/64" strips to length and attach together using the pattern, railings inside the poles (glue or solder may work for this action), then glue to stairs.
25. At your option, you may wish to make extra stairs for other places around the platform.  They should have handrails or walls on both sides.

26. Single sided station bench:
1. Cut out one single-sided bench.
2. Score front and back as shown.
3. Fold up squarely on all back scores.
4. Fold the long front score nearly halfway between the ends back on itself and glue flat to make the bench back.
5. Fold the other front score fully back, glue it flat against the other side of the fold and glue the other wide flap to the bottom of the back.
6. To form the sides, fold the small tabs on the back up and glue them to the small tabs on the seat.
7. Repeat for as many single sided benches as you want.  Note that the smaller single sided bench is designed to fit beneath the waiting room windows trackside.

27. Double sided station bench:
1. Cut out one set of double-sided bench pieces.
2. Score fronts and backs and cut as shown as shown.
3. Fold up squarely on all back scores.
4. Fold the long front score between the two side tabs fully back and glue flat so the back score touches the paper edge.  This forms the bench seat.
5. Fold the other front score fully back and glue it flat against the other side of the fold.  This forms the bench back.
6. To form the sides, fold the small tabs on the back up and glue them to the small tabs on the seat.
7. Repeat for as many single sided benches as you want.

CAPE COD HOUSE     CHURCH     WALLS & TUNNELS     General Instructions

LAYOUTS     TECHNIQUES     STRUCTURES

Copyright © 2009, 2020 by John E. Suchy.  All legal rights reserved.